The Lights Are Off

Climbing Rocks and Wandering Castles: Two Days in the Carolina Smokies


The Carolina side of the Smoky Mountains is every bit as stunning as the Tennessee side. In fact, unless you’re staring at the road signs, it’s hard to tell when you’ve crossed over—the beauty just continues, uninterrupted. We stopped for two nights in Asheville, staying at a KOA campground, one of those rare chain operations that’s genuinely well run and thoughtfully maintained.


After setting up our site, we wasted no time. We hopped in the Jeep, leashed up the dogs, and headed to Chimney Rockfor a late-afternoon hike. The drive up alone was a treat—winding mountain roads flanked by quaint little hamlets with names like Bat Cave and Goodluck. Honestly, who wouldn’t want to live in a place called Goodluck?


The hike itself is no joke—about 300 stairs straight up from the parking lot and gift shop, the equivalent of an hour on a stairmaster (without the air conditioning). But we made it. All four of us. Sweaty, a little breathless, but totally exhilarated.


The view from the top? Breathtaking. Lake Lure stretched out below, winding gracefully through the valley, a ribbon of blue framed by rolling green hills. Taking in the nearly 360-degree vista, I had one of those still moments of quiet clarity. This is why we hit the road. This is why we travel. I was grateful—grateful for Gary encouraging me to keep climbing, and proud of Lola and Fiona, who scampered up the stairs like it was nothing and explored every cave and crevice they could find. They’re officially Hiking Dogs now.



Friday: Living Like Vanderbilts (For a Day)


Today was our much-anticipated visit to The Biltmore Estate, often called America’s castle. Built by George Vanderbiltin the 1890s, this sprawling mansion is a monument to wealth, architecture, and (let’s be honest) a lot of dark wood paneling.


As someone who loves history—and also enjoys poking around in other people’s houses—this was a dream day. Gary and I both found the interior furnishings a bit heavy and brooding (clearly not a fan of open floor plans back then), but the scale and detail of the house were awe-inspiring. I guess when you’re that rich, you need dozens of rooms just to wander between your morning tea and your afternoon social calls.


But the real standout? The gardens. Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, the same landscape architect who gave us Central Park, the gardens were nothing short of spectacular. The conservatory was a kaleidoscope of blooming flowers, the air thick with the scent of spring. Every path felt curated for peace. It was, hands down, our favorite part of the visit.


If you’ve never been to the Biltmore, add it to your travel list. Yes, it’s a splurge. Yes, it’s a full day. But it’s more than just a tour—it’s a window into another time, a slice of Gilded Age elegance, and a place where the flowers do a better job than the furniture of telling a story.